Advice on Products and a Routine to Keep Skin Supple and Smooth, Even in Cold Weather

With a challenging economy and predictions for a very cold winter, my crystal ball says that many of us this holiday season will have a preponderance of gifts that seem luxurious but are actually relatively inexpensive—fragrant soaps and lotions, for instance. I have, in fact, often given these as gifts myself, but based on what I have learned about winter skin care, I think I will be saving any I receive for spring, when they may be less likely to cause skin problems exacerbated by heating systems and cold, windy weather. Looking for specifics on how to protect ourselves, I called Philadelphia dermatologist Susan Taylor, MD, to see what she might suggest. Here’s what she had to say…

  • Cool it down and keep it simple for showers and baths. As soothing as it is to stand in a hot shower or lie in a steaming tub relishing the feeling of being almost too warm, Dr. Taylor says this is one of the primary reasons people develop uncomfortable winter skin. Puritan though it may sound, Dr. Taylor’s advice is to keep water temperature lukewarm, and to limit bathing to no more than four or five minutes, because hot water dries skin out. This is partially because the hot water removes the natural oily upper lipid layer on skin, and also because the chlorine treatments of public water supplies leave chemical residue that can be dehydrating. If your skin is sensitive, banish those lush soaps (deodorant soaps too, as these have the same effect) and skin creams to the back of the cabinet till the weather warms up.

Best bathing choices: Soaps made entirely from vegetable oils (like olive oil) and glycerin, along with the entire product line from Dr. Bronner’s (www.drbronner.com). Also good are mild soaps such as Dove, Cetaphil, Olay or Basis…and make sure you lather up only the areas of your body that need cleansing, skipping your arms, legs and most of the torso in order to minimize drying.

  • Exfoliate gently. Many women routinely exfoliate their skin in the shower with a loofah pad or synthetic abrasive fabrics, but Dr. Taylor discourages this—especially in winter. Though she agrees that exfoliation is important, whatever the season, she suggests being gentle at this time of year by using serums or lotions that contain alpha hydroxyl acids, which are non-abrasive. These acids dissolve dead skin, which is why they are the basis of chemical peels. There are many such products available.
  • Pat yourself down. When you emerge from your shower—again, not a hot one—forgo the ritual of vigorously towel-drying and towel-pat your skin instead so that it remains slightly damp. Apply a rich cream or lotion (it should contain petrolatum, cocoa butter or shea butter) right away—the oil film will trap the water left on the skin to further moisturize it. Dr. Taylor recommends Eucerin, Aveeno Moisturizing Lotion, Cetaphil cream and Rx for Brown Skin.

LIP SOOTHERS

Okay, let’s talk lips. The dry, cold air of winter makes lip-licking an easy habit to fall into. Dr. Taylor admits that the temptation to moisten chapped lips with a quick lick of the tongue is instinctive, but it’s a bad habit if you are prone to dry lips. The saliva that feels as if it is moisturizing your lips evaporates quickly and leaves them ever more vulnerable to drying, and there is an additional problem as well. Dr. Taylor explains that saliva contains digestive enzymes and bacteria that also damage lips. Instead, she suggests using petrolatum-based lip balms (Vaseline, for instance, or ChapStick) liberally throughout the day. A moisturizing lipstick can be a good choice as well. Note: Lip balm should have SPF in it.

What not to use: Long-lasting lipsticks advertised as all-day color because the ingredients dry out the lips and lip glosses, if you are sensitive to the dyes and fragrances in them. (You will know this is the case if your lips become dry or irritated after using, says Dr. Taylor.) Dr. Taylor likes Kiehl’s Lip Balm.

SPORTS IN THE SNOW

Dr. Taylor emphasizes the importance of sunscreen for winter-sports enthusiasts, with a reminder to apply frequently whenever you are out in the snow. The sun’s glare bouncing off all that white stuff multiplies your exposure to the sun’s rays. Also wear masks and hats that protect your skin from the cold air, but avoid those made of wool, which may be irritating to the skin.

WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE

Humidifiers are an excellent way to provide more moisture to the air at home and in the office and are particularly soothing for people who develop throat and sinus discomfort from heated rooms. Be sure to carefully follow instructions for keeping humidifiers clean so yours isn’t spewing bacteria into the air. Another—prettier—way to add moisture to the air is with plants, curiously enough. Watering them brings moisture through the stem, into the leaves and out into the room. 

Finally, remember to hydrate from the inside out by drinking lots of water, even though your thirst will undoubtedly be less than on hot summer days.

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