So, what’s the big deal?
Your skin is this super-absorber of substances both good and bad, and the products you put on your skin end up in your body. On average, consumers use about 10 personal care products containing 126 ingredients in total per day!
The government doesn’t require health studies or pre-market testing for these products. The FDA has a GRAS (Generally Regarded as Safe) list, but almost every chemical is included in that list! They focus on things like softness or wrinkle reduction, not the unintended consequences. Of the 7,000 ingredients on the list, only 6 have been tested for long-term safety. This means that consumers need to be extra-vigilant about evaluating their skincare products for themselves since the government is not watching out for us.
I’m going to discuss the top offenders and why you should avoid them. It’s going to get a little technical but I’ll try my best to break it down!
Parabens are preservatives found in many skincare products. You can spot them easily on the product label because they end with the word paraben. [Ingredients to look for: methylparaben, proplyparaben, isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, butylparaben, and sodium butylparaben.]
Although the FDA has determined that parabens are safe for inclusion in skincare products, many scientists agree that they are not a wise choice. Why is this? Well, one reason has to do with the chemical structure of a paraben, which is close to that of estrogen and can fit into estrogen receptors at the cellular level. Basically what that means is that your delicate endocrine (hormone) system is disturbed and may eventually lead to breast and other forms of cancer.
THE NITTY-GRITTY
The body of evidence against parabens is growing.
Recently, a 2015 study conducted at the University of California Berkeley looked at parabens in their interaction with estrogen receptors in the body, specifically HER. Researchers said that previous tests potentially missed the “real world” effects of parabens by only considering them in isolation, rather than factoring in interaction with other molecules in cells, as the parabens in this setting stimulated tumor growth significantly.
There are numerous research studies like this which are mostly suggestive, however, the suggestion is strong enough for me to avoid parabens until further research is done to tell me they are safe. Better safe than sorry, right?
Phthalates are chemical compounds that are used as plasticizers – ingredients that give plastics their elasticity and change the texture and quality of skincare products. [Ingredients to look for: di-2-ethyl hexyl phthalate (DEHP), diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP), butylbenzyl phthalate (BBP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), diisononyl phthalate (DINP), and diethyl phthalate (DEP).]
Now these probably look like a lot of confusing chemicals that you don’t understand, but just check the ingredient labels in your skincare products. You’re more than likely to find them!
Phthalates are considered estrogen disruptors and the cause of reproductive problems. They also have been indicated as causing fat-related health risks.
A University of Rochester Medical Center study connected common chemicals to rising obesity rates. The analysis found men with the highest levels of phthalates in their urine had more belly fat and insulin resistance. Who wants their skincare products adding to the already difficult task of battling weight gain?
These ingredients generally act as detergents or foaming agents and are found in cleansers and shampoos. [Ingredients to look for include: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate.]
Tests show that Sodium Lauryl Sulfate can penetrate into the eyes as well as systemic tissues (brain, heart, liver, etc.) and show long-term retention in those tissues, especially when used in soaps and shampoos. This is especially important in infants, where considerable growth is occurring. SLS also changes the amounts of some proteins in cells in eye tissue of all ages.
SLS forms nitrates. Why does this matter? When SLS is used in shampoos and cleansers containing nitrogen-based ingredients, it can form carcinogenic nitrates that can enter the blood stream in large numbers. This can cause eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf similar to dandruff, and allergic reactions!
One rule of thumb to remember — if it foams, it may not be your friend.
Petroleum is used by many skincare companies because it’s a cheap ingredient that can be used as a moisturizing agent. In many European countries it is banned as an ingredient in skincare products. Petroleum can contain known carcinogens (cancer-causing chemicals). Additionally, these products block moisture from escaping the skin, and clog pores. They offer a false sense of hydration, when actually they prevent the action of your skin’s natural fats to act to provide a moisture barrier.
Artificial dyes and fragrances in lotions, shampoos, and many other cosmetic products are composed of aromatic hydrocarbons. What does that mean for you? Perfumes and products containing fragrance can contain many hundreds of chemicals to produce a distinct scent. A significant number of these aromas are derived from petroleum. These chemicals have been associated with allergic reactions and hormone disruption. Some fragrance chemicals have not been assessed for safety. Until all fragrance ingredients are disclosed on the label, consumers cannot know what is in a particular fragrance. Therefore it’s best to avoid synthetic fragrances altogether.
Certain artificial colors and dyes can cause allergic reactions. It takes up to 25 chemicals to create the synthetic color purple for example. That’s a lot of chemicals just to add some visual appeal to a product! (If you think purple cream is attractive that is…) This puts a great deal of stress on the body’s detoxification system. There’s simply no need to add artificial colors to skincare products.
The Bottom Line
There’s really no need to sacrifice safety for clinical efficacy! There are safe alternatives to the ingredients discussed here, even though it may cost us a little more.
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This was a lot of scientific jargon and information to digest all at once, but I hope you found it useful. Be sure to ask me any questions you have. You could be featured in our follow-up Q&A!
Click here to read Ginger Hodulik Downey’s book The Esthetician’s Guide to Outstanding Esthetics.
