Lisa McManus
Lisa McManus, executive tasting and testing editor at America’s Test Kitchen. AmericasTestKitchen.com
Great cookware makes cooking easier and more enjoyable—and sometimes makes food taste better, too. Five crucial cookware pieces, starting with the most important…
Six- or seven-quart enameled cast iron Dutch oven is what professional chefs call the one piece of cookware that they can’t live without. It’s versatile—use it to cook soups and stews, deep-fry, bake bread, boil pasta and much more. Cast iron holds and distributes heat very well, and an enameled surface makes it easy to care for. A round Dutch oven will heat more evenly on a burner than an oval one. Best overall:* Le Creuset 7¼-Quart Round Dutch Oven,
recently $320 online. Best lower cost: Cuisinart 7-Quart Round Covered Casserole, $130.
12-inch stainless steel skillet is ideal for searing, sautéing, browning, pan-frying and simmering. Choose one that features the excellent heat distribution of aluminum bonded between layers of durable, easy-to-care-for stainless steel. Best overall: All-Clad D3 Stainless 12-inch Fry Pan with Lid, $220. Best lower cost: Tramontina Tri-Ply Clad 12-inch Fry Pan, $53.
Four-quart three-ply bonded aluminum/stainless steel saucepan is appropriate for cooking soups, sauces, pasta and much more. And it’s less likely to boil over than a small one. As above, pick one that has a layer of aluminum sandwiched between layers of stainless steel. Also, favor straight, vertical sides—food is less likely to overheat or burn than with angled or curved ones. Best overall: All-Clad Stainless 4-Quart Sauce Pan, $245. Best lower cost: Tramontina Tri-Ply Clad 4-Quart Covered Sauce Pan, $63.
12-inch cast iron skillet is great for searing and frying, and it can be safely used on a range, in an oven or even over a campfire. Cast iron holds heat wonderfully, lasts for generations and brings rich flavor to food. Best: Lodge 12-inch Cast Iron Skillet, $32. Best lower weight: Matfer Bourgeat 117⁄8-inch Black Steel Fry Pan. Cast iron is very heavy. This carbon steel pan offers very similar cooking characteristics but is much lighter. $66.
12-inch nonstick skillet is great for delicate items such as fish or eggs…and for easy clean-up. Keep in mind, however, that nonstick coatings typically wear off in three to five years. Best: OXO Good Grips Non-Stick Pro 12-inch Open Frypan is free of the potentially dangerous chemical PFOA. $50 with a glass lid and $32 without.
*Product recommendations are based on performance and durability tests conducted by America’s Test Kitchen.