Today’s cars cost more than ever, but they also last longer than ever. Not all that many decades ago, an odometer rolling over to 100,000 miles usually meant a vehicle was nearing the end of the road. These days, 200,000 miles is common…and even 300,000 isn’t rare. But if your goal is to reach very high mileage totals, which vehicle you buy and how you maintain it matters.
Manufacturer | Potential Mileage |
Japanese—Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mazda, Suzuki, Mitsubishi, Subaru | 200,000 to 300,000 |
American—Ford, General Motors, Chrysler | 150,000 to 200,000 |
European—Mercedes-Benz, BMW | 150,000 to 200,000 |
Korean—Hyundai, Kia, Genesis | 150,000 to 200,000 |
The simplest way to gauge how long a car is likely to last is to consider where its manufacturer is based.
Japanese cars are the best longevity bet—200,000, 250,000, even 300,000 miles are very achievable. American cars are more likely to expire between 150,000 and 200,000 miles. European cars can potentially reach 150,000 to 200,000 miles, too…but only if you are willing to shoulder steep repair bills to keep them on the road that long. Cars from Korean manufacturers have improved in quality, design, and reliability, and they are capable of reaching mileage totals comparable to those of US and European cars, but they can still be a gamble—some last, but more than a few are felled by major engine issues before reaching 150,000 miles.
Toyota and its luxury brand Lexus are especially likely to post impressive mileage totals, even by the standards of Japanese brands. The company’s SUVs, pickups and cars dominate lists of the longest-lasting vehicles. But: Toyota/Lexus longevity is no secret, so if you’re in the market for a used one, you’ll probably have to pay a premium—and the same applies to used Hondas/Acuras, which have nearly as strong a reputation for longevity. Other Japanese brands make long-lasting vehicles, too, so if you find a significantly lower price on a used Subaru or Mazda or even a Nissan, that could be a fine option.
Gas vs. electric: If your primary goal is to buy a car that will last, gas-powered vehicles are a safer choice than EVs. EV batteries seem to have the potential to provide impressive longevity, and this technology continues to improve…but when the batteries fail on an out-of-warranty EV, the vehicle usually isn’t worth repairing.
Plenty of things can go wrong with any vehicle, but the four big car killers are engine problems…transmission problems…rust…and accidents.
Replacing a failed engine typically costs $4,000 to $10,000…a failed transmission, $3,800 to $6,500. Those bills are so steep that it’s often not worth investing the money in an aging vehicle. Similarly, it might not be economical to keep a car on the road if it has been in a serious accident or if rust has eaten away at the frame.
There are things you can do to reduce the odds of car-killing problems…
All car owners know that oil changes are important, but some delay getting them because life gets busy…and others don’t pay sufficient attention to oil-change details. If the maintenance schedule in your vehicle’s owner’s manual says to change the oil every 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first, don’t ignore the six months part of those instructions—oil degrades over time. If the owner’s manual recommends a particular type of oil, don’t use a cheaper oil to save a few dollars…and don’t let an oil change shop up-sell you to a more expensive oil. The best oil for your engine is the one cited in its manual—that’s what it was engineered to use.
Also: Have your engine air filter and spark plugs changed according to the schedule in the owner’s manua …and consider having carbon buildup professionally removed from the engine every 30,000 miles or so.
Many modern transmissions can go a very long time between fluid changes, but transmission fluid does have to be changed eventually. Refer to your owner’s manual for details.
If you live in a part of the country where salt is applied to icy roads, get that salt off your car. Unfortunately, automated car washes don’t necessarily do that—in fact, they might use equipment or acidic chemicals that exacerbate salt damage. Better: Wait for days when temperatures are above freezing, and use warm water to gently rinse off your car, including its underbody. Avoid getting water into door locks or door gaskets where it could freeze up when temperatures drop.
Most modern cars come equipped with technology designed to help drivers avoid accidents—but no tech is perfect. Paying close attention to the road while driving remains the best way to reduce accident odds.
If you notice a strange odor when driving, try to figure out where it is coming from. Open the hood and sniff…open the trunk and sniff…sniff near each of the wheels. Contact a mechanic if your car seems to be giving off a burning smell (this could be the result of an oil leak, brake issue, clutch issue or electrical system issue, among other potential causes)…a pancake-syrup smell (this might be coolant leaking and/or burning)…a rotten-egg smell (this might be a catalytic converter problem)…a musty smell (this might be an A/C problem)…or a fuel odor (this one you can probably guess—there might be a fuel leak). Also: Keep an eye on your garage floor or parking space. If you see drips or puddles, your car might be losing liquid that it needs. The exception is water—if you’ve been using the A/C, water is probably just normal condensation, not a sign that something is wrong.
How much mileage is too much for a used car? That depends entirely on the car. A well-maintained used Japanese car—especially a Toyota or Lexus—with 150,000 miles on its odometer could easily have another 100,000 miles or more left in it. But a used European car often isn’t worth buying if its odometer is around 100,000 miles—even if the purchase price is low, the cost to keep it running will likely be very high.
Used-car buyers should also search for details about the specific model and vehicle…
It’s a great sign if a seller can provide an organized file full of receipts for every service that the car has ever had. Not only do these records tell you a lot about how well the vehicle has been maintained, they tell you a lot about its owner—responsible car owners tend to keep careful records…unresponsible car owners often don’t.
Entering the vehicle’s vehicle identification number (VIN) into this service will let you know if it has ever been in an accident, among other useful info. (CarFax.com, $44.99 for one vehicle report, discounts are available for multiple reports.) The VIN can be found on the driver’s side door jamb or on a metal plate on the driver’s side dashboard below the windshield…and on the vehicle’s registration and insurance policy.
Take the car to a mechanic you trust for an inspection before finalizing the purchase. Make sure this inspection includes checking for flood damage, even if your area isn’t flood-prone—shipping flood-damaged cars around the country has become a common scam. (Expect to pay for one to two hours of the mechanic’s time.)
Enter the year, make and model of the vehicle into a search engine along with the word “reliability” or “problems” to see if it’s known to have serious issues. ConsumerReports.org also provides summaries of known issues (subscription required)…and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s website provides recall and consumer complaint info (NHTSA.gov).